Flea Control

Because of the ideal environment in the Bay Area, fleas can thrive all year round. For that reason it is important that you are consistent with your flea control program. Even animals that are strictly indoor pets can acquire fleas. You may not see fleas on your animal, but if your pet is scratching, has scabs or if you see small black specs (flea dirt), those are indications of fleas. It is also important to know which products are labeled for your pet; some products are extremely toxic to cats and rabbits.

Several diseases are related to fleas. Fleas can transmit tapeworms – small rice like worms found in stool or around the anus. Flea bites may result in an allergic response in some animals (Flea Allergy Dermatitis – FAD), and in extreme cases, fleas can cause anemia, usually in young or weak animals. Tapeworms are acquired by the animal ingesting the infected flea. Usually Tapeworms are seen only in dogs and cats but small children can get Tapeworms too by accidentally ingesting a flea or flea parts. Up to 40% of the canine population is sensitive to flea bites. FAD should be considered a progressive disease, with each episode resulting in an increasingly severe reaction in the allergic pet. A well-planned flea control strategy is essential to maintaining the health and comfort of both the pet and the family.

Fleas are hardy insects which can live from six months to one year. Most of their adult life is spent on their host animal. Fleas go through a complete life cycle which consists of four stages: eggs, larvae, pupae and adults. When an adult flea emerges from their cocoon they must feed on a blood meal within one week to survive. However, a completely developed adult may live for several months to one year without feeding. Because of their thick hair coat, warm body temperature and less frequent bathing, small mammals make an ideal host for adult fleas.

The female flea must have a blood meal before laying eggs and she will lay her eggs on the pet. Usually the eggs fall off the pet onto the carpet, bedding or wherever the pet lies down. The flea eggs hatch into larvae which are very sensitive to light and heat and consequently seek out hiding places, such as cracks in the floor, between carpet fibers, under furniture and under organic material in the kennel. Larvae eat adult flea feces and other organic material. Larvae evolve into pupae and can remain in that state for up to one year until they hatch into adult fleas.

Fleas tend to seek dark, cool places that are protected from rain. Moderate temperature with a relative high humidity (70%) make fleas mature faster, while less ideal conditions tend to slow the growth process.

Because adult fleas are not discriminating about their hosts, all of the pets and humans in an infested home are vulnerable. If it is to be successful, a flea control program must involve the entire household at the same time, and all the animals in contact with the affected pet should also be treated. If you have a severe flea infestation you may want to consider a pest control company.

There are many alternatives in flea control. Insecticides are the most common form of treatment for adult flea infestations and are necessary to eradicate fleas from the animal. Other methods such as insect growth regulators work to eliminate fleas in the egg and larval stages and may be useful as an environmental treatment (Nylor™, Archer™). Nematodes (microscopic worms) are a natural enemy of fleas that kill them in the larva and pupa states (Biosafe™, Exhibit™, Vector TL™). Boric acid is a safe non-toxic method of destroying fleas in the larva state (Fleabusters™). Flea combs can be purchased at your local pet store and mechanical control of fleas may work well for you.

Feeding pet’s garlic, brewer’s yeast or B vitamins has not been shown to be effective against fleas. Also, pennyroyal, eucalyptus, rosemary, tea leaves and citronella have not been shown to provide effective control. In fact, overdosing of garlic or onion can be irritating or toxic to pets.

This is what your veterinarian has recommended for you:

____ Advantage: Advantage is an insecticide which kills adult fleas. Apply every month on dogs above shoulder blades. For cats apply behind head every month. Apply every three weeks if you swim or bathe your animal frequently or if you have a heavy infestation. Don’t bathe your animal two day prior or after applying. If you have a large dog apply half on neck area and half on hind quarters – above the tail. Advantage is safe for dogs, cats, and rabbits. It does not control ticks.

____ Frontline Plus: Frontline Plus is an insecticide which kills adult fleas, larvae and eggs. Apply every month on dogs above shoulder blades. For cats apply behind head every month. Apply every three weeks if you swim or bathe your animal frequently or if you have a heavy infestation. Don’t bathe your animal two day prior or after applying. If you have a large dog apply half on neck area and half on hind quarters – above the tail. Frontline is safe for dogs and cats. DO NOT USE ON RABBITS. Frontline Plus will kill adult ticks too.

____ Program: Program prevents successful reproduction of the flea by weakening the egg membrane, resulting in an unviable egg. Program does not kill adult fleas. Give by mouth with food once monthly on the same day every month. Program is safe for dogs and cats.

House Treatment:

____Follow instructions below for being a bad flea host

____Use these products at home:________________________________________________

____Seek a pest control company to assist

When treating your home and garden for flea infestation, remember to follow these tips:

• Vacuum the carpets thoroughly every other day to remove as many of the immature fleas as possible. A vacuum with a mechanical carpet brush is the best as it can open up the carpet fiber to get to the larvae. Don’t forget about under the furniture and all the places that your pet rests. Dispose of the vacuum bag after cleaning is complete.

• Wash bedding and (if possible) areas where your pet lies weekly in HOT (130ºF) water and detergent.

• Keep grass short and remove any organic debris from the yard and kennel area. Don’t store sand or gravel in your yard.

• Block off access to crawl spaces under the house or porch and treat these areas with insecticides. Also remember to treat any cool areas in which your pet may lie.

• Remember that insecticides do not penetrate carpet fibers effectively so pay special attention to this area.

• Use yard and kennel sprays around the house. Be aware of product label and use accordingly especially if you have small children, birds or other small animals.

• Be persistent. If you feel a product is not working, stop to analyze where and how you are applying it before switching to another brand. Consult with your veterinarian or pest control agent to verify you are utilizing the product properly.